As every salad lover knows, oil and vinegar go great together. But if you throw in some champagne, chocolate, figs and herbs and add it to Brownsboro Road, the result is no less delicious.
Bob Hundley and Beverly Bromley first brought together these ingredients last October when they opened Primo Oils & Vinegars, a specialty shop focusing on those little things that can make all the difference. In their Chenoweth Plaza store, visitors can sample more than 40 different varietals of oil and vinegar on any given day. “We have oils from California, Italy, Portugal and Tunisia,” says Hundley. Specifically? “There’s a Tuscan herb oil for dipping, a Tunisian oil infused with harissa – it gives you a nice warm glow in your mouth – a blood orange oil, a Persian lime ... truffle oil, olive oil, walnut oil.” And if that doesn’t boggle the palate, the vinegar selection is equally compelling: “Our primary balsamic vinegar is aged 18 years. We have champagne vinegars, and tangerine, lavender and pear.”
As with all those spices in the cabinet, it can be hard to know what complements what food the best. “It’s a condiment – you don’t go drinking it,” says Hundley of Primo’s liquid selections. “Something like a sherry reserve or a champagne vinegar are always used as seasonings. They help balance out a dish. Vinegar cuts the sugar and balances the acidity.”
With the confidence of a studied sommelier, Hundley effortlessly pairs his wares with the foods that will most benefit from that little extra kick. “Something like a tangerine balsamic would work great on chicken or salmon, or use the blood orange oil for a great vinaigrette. Or the dark chocolate balsamic, gee whiz ... you can mix it with fresh berries or mole sauces.” He’s even experimented with his own reductions beyond those done in the creation of vinegars from Lambrusco and Trebbiano grapes: “I’ve reduced the dark chocolate balsamic and the raspberry balsamic, 50/50, and you can put it on gelato or on feta cheese and it just clings to it.”
It is a little difficult to imagine Hundley being this enthusiastic about the product he used to sell – paper – but then, there’s a little more room for creativity in his new line of work. Wife Beverly isn’t in the store as much. During the week, she is development director at Jewish Family and Career Services, but she lends her hand and her palate at the Douglass Loop Farmers’ Market on Saturdays, as well as with private events and group tastings at Primo.
For newcomers to the world of more exotic oils and vinegars, the couple is eager to ease the transition. “The first thing we want them to do is experience what fresh oil is like,” Hundley says. “There are little sweet oils, little mild oils, and then you have big, peppery, bitter oils that are like coffee or wine or beer – we all have a palate for these things. We try to have people try this one, try that one, try this one.” And what will they find? “Some people like big earthy flavors, like mushroom, sage or truffle; some people like a Tuscan herb or Milanese green with lemon zest and parsley and a little bit of mint. We try to help people discover their palate and give them options after that.” Still at a loss? Hundley and Bromley both agree on the Tuscan herb oil, which can serve as a dipping oil or find its utility in dressings or marinades. “It’s just a very versatile oil,” he says.
Hundley and Bromley love Primo’s location and its food-loving neighbors Gemelli Wines and Breadworks – not to mention the abundant parking – but they are equally at home in the Highlands. “We’re thrilled that the farmers’ market has us; that’s our back yard,” Hundley says. “It allows us to connect with our neighborhood.” And if you’re in the Brownsboro Road area? “People can come through any time and we’ll guide them through a tasting.” (Groups of more than four, however, are advised to schedule a visit – and Bromley will bring the cheese and bread.) “We like to allow them to do a little exploring on their own.”
Primo Oils & Vinegars is located in Chenoweth Plaza at 3628 Brownsboro Road. The store is open Monday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. Call (502) 895-2656 or visit www.primooils.com for more information.
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